x. 27 May 2022 - Hangkar to Nimaling...

  

Wangtok had already mentioned in his conversation with us that Friday's walk from Hangkar to Nimaling would be a long one & the altitude gain too would be from 13400 to 15800. Also we will be starting our walk earlier as compared to other days i.e 730 AM instead of 830 AM. The graph by TTH website showed distance to be covered 7 km in approx 4-5 hours. Assuming we start walking at 730 AM we should be reaching our destination Nimaling by 1 PM max. Wangtok was mentioning that by the time we reach Nimaling it would be 4 PM. Jaldi nikalneka, aaj bahut chalneka hai, pahunchne mein time lagega. In fact we were given packed tiffin in lieu of lunch. Something was amiss.

We had our Tea at 6 AM, Breakfast at 7 AM & started our walk by 735 AM. As usual approximately after an hour's walk Wangtok would give a break, in which we use to hydrate ourselves. In one stretch we found a goat's skull with the horns intact.

Almost every one had some light snacks which was handy during such breaks. In addition to the biscuit packets, chocolates and a tetrapack of lemon juice given everyday morning by TTH, we had energy bars, dry fruits packed in small packets and hard boiled sweets with us. 

At one break Wangtok informed that we can have our packed sandwiches. It must have been around 1 PM now. The next stretch was also manageable. Around 230 PM we reached a particularly difficult ascent. 

 

At this stage we noticed that one of group members started walking in a zig zag manner. Dr Swamy who was walking just behind this person saw this and immediately came to his side. When we neared this person we realised that he was also showing mild symptoms of breathing problem. By this time Wangtok and a few other trekkers had taken a lead and disappeared from our sight. Thankfully Mayank the rear guide was with us. In the next 2 and half hours we supported (in pairs - one person each on left and the right - turn by turn) the patient, managed to negotiate a gigantic ascent and bring the patient to the level ground which was at an altitude of around 15300 feet. This locality, I learned later, is called as the Twin Lake. It was at least an other hours walk to the camp site. With our consent Mayank went ahead and got a pony to transport the patient to the camp site. The remaining members trudged to the site & we finally reached the camp site by around 6 PM. Hot soup awaited us. The 2 medical doctors of the group, the local guide Wangtok & TTH guide Mayank checked up on the patient. His oxymeter reading showed an alarmingly low O2 level. An oxygen cylinder was brought out & administered. Wangtok informed that the cylinder was only for emergency use and would last maximum 2 to 3 hours.

Given the present situation, the patient's condition was likely to worsen during the night. We had left behind the last village Hangkar today morning & there was no village or Homestay ahead till we cross Kongmaru la the summit and reach Chokdo village. This was atleast 10-12 hours of hard core walking ahead.  Should anything untoward happen at night there was nothing we could do. It was unanimously decided that the patient would be immediately shifted to Hangkar village from where we had began the day. Wangtok assured that the descent to Hangkar is much easier than the ascent which we did today & one can easily reach there in 4 hours.

                                                    
The plan was Wangtok alongwith another local would take the patient in a horse till the Twin lake site & from there the walk to Hangkar could be accomplished in 3 hours. The locals (Wangtok and one of the assistants from the kitchen) were very sure that once we descend to a lower altitude the health condition would improve automatically. Later in the day a cab can be arranged to Leh from Hangkar & the patient can reach the Leh hotel roughly around the same time the trekkers would reach Leh but after crossing the summit Kongmaru la, descending the mountains to Chokdo and taking a van from Chokdo to Leh! The time was around 730 PM.  We were not ready to leave the patient at the mercy of these 2 locals and would have preferred atleast one of the trekkers to accompany the patient, but no one had to guts to cover the entire distance from Hangkar to Nimaling again, albeit a descent. Inspite of knowing the task ahead, a group member who had participated and successfully completed the Tata Ultra Marathon (35-50 km) just a week before the commencement of the trek boldly volunteered to accompany the group.

After a quick dinner,  with just bare minimum luggage (just a light backpack, water bottle, headlight & trek pole) the group took 2 ponies (one each for the patient & the accompanying member) and started their return walk towards Hangkar village. The pony man returned in about 90 minutes & informed that the others are on their way back to hangkar & are likely to maintain a good speed & reach there by 12 midnight). There was absolutely no way for us to check what time these people will be reaching Hangkar, as the mobile connectivity in this area was practically Nil.

During the course of the day, in the stretch between 230 PM & 400 PM we got to witness one of the most spectacular sights of this trek. A live sighting of a group of around 20-22 Himalayan ibex goats. see video below.

After seeing off the group to Hangkar, after being assured that the patient is on his way where he will be safer, my immediate concern was who would lead the trek the next day. Our chief lead, the local expert Wangtok will not be returning to Nimaling.

The night at Nimaling was something about which Wangtok had warned. It was a combination of high altitude and spending the night in a tent (unlike the earlier 3 nights where we were in the comfort of homestay!) The night temperature was likely to go to zero degrees or even below that. We pulled on additional layers over our already bulgy clothing. 

I had a "brahmastram" up my sleeve! When leaving Mumbai, Sridhar had given me a full down jacket which I had not used till now. I pulled it out of my travel bag and wore it as the top most layer. Using 2 sleeping bags, one to slide into & the other to use as a cover should we require it, I went off to sleep. Instead of sleeping in the normal tent, 4 of us slept in the bigger tent which we normally use for breakfast. It is difficult / impossible to describe in words how the night was. To cut long story short, after a fragmented sleep, I witnessed sunrise around 445/500 AM.  

When I visited the nearby stream I saw a solid frozen sheet of ice where the stream was flowing the previous night.

 

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